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Base de données des enseignements et séminaires de l'EHESS

Ce séminaire a pour but d’offrir un enseignement comprenant d’une part l’acquisition de repères historiques et historiographiques sur la longue durée et dans une perspective globale, d’autre part la connaissance des sources (archives, objets, images, supports numériques) et enfin la maîtrise de méthodologies croisant l’histoire, l’anthropologie des techniques et les sciences humaines. Les thématiques sont développées à partir d’un point central, les savoirs corporels appliqués aux éléments de parure. Elles permettent d’explorer de grands enjeux de société, comme leurs liens avec les guerres, les politiques, les professions, l’enseignement et la globalisation. Les séances seront illustrées par plusieurs études de cas en Europe, en Afrique, en Amérique ou en Asie.

Séances 1 et 2. Histoire et théorie : Technique, corps et modes

16 et 23 janvier 2019

• Agins T., The End of Fashion, New York, William Morrow, 1999.
• Barthes R., Le système de la mode, Paris, Seuil, 1967.
• Blumer H., “Fashion: From Class Differentiation to Collective Selection”, The Sociological Quarterly 10, 1969, n°3, p. 275-291.
• Breward C., The Culture of Fashion, Manchester, Manchester University Press, 1995.
• Craik J., The Face of Fashion: Cultural Studies in Fashion, London and New York, Routledge, 1994.
• Davis F., Fashion, Culture, and Identity, Chicago, University of Chicago Press, 1992.
• Flügel J., The Psychology of Clothes, London, Hogarth Press, 1930.
• Kidwell C., Christman M., Suiting Everyone: The Democratization of Clothing in America, Washington, Smithsonian Institution Press, 1974.
• Lipovetsky G., The Empire of Fashion, Princeton, Princeton University Press, 1994.
• Roche D., La culture des apparences. Une histoire du vêtement (XVII^e-XVIII^e s.), Paris, Fayard, 1989.
• Simmel G., “Fashion”, International Quarterly, 1904, 10, p. 130-155.
• Steele V., Paris Fashion: A Cultural History, Oxford, Oxford University Press, 1988.
• Taylor L., The Study of Dress History, Manchester, Manchester University Press, 2002.
• Veblen T., Theory of the Leisure Class, New York, Macmillan, 1899.
• Tortore P., Eubank K., Survey of Historic Costume, New York, Fairchild Publications, 1998.

Séance 3. Politiques, techniques, corps et mode

30 janvier 2019

• Alexander K., Alexander M. D., The Law of School, Students, and Teachers in a Nutshell, St. Paul, West Publishing Co., 1984.
• French J. R. P., Raven B., “The Bases of Social Power”, in Cartwright D., Arbor A., Studies in Social Power, Mich., University of Michigan, Institute for Social Itcsearch, 1958, pp. 150-167.
• Lennon S. J., Schultz T. L., Johnson K. K. P., “Forging Linkages Between Dress and the Law in the U.S., Part II: Dress Codes”, Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 1999, vol. 17, no. 3, p. 157-167.
• Raven B., “The Bases of Power: Origins and Recent Developments”, Journal of Social Issues, 1999, n°49, p. 227-254.
• Rothstein M., Craver C. B., Schroeder E. P., Shoben E. W., Vandervelde L. S., Employment Law, St. Paul, West Publishing Company, 1994.
• Scott A. C., Chinese Costume in Transition, New York, Theatre Arts, 1958.
• Tinker v. Des Moines Independence Community School District, 393 U.S. 503, 1969.

Séance 4. Colonialisme et impérialisme

6 février 2019

• Alloula M., Theory and History of Literatures, Manchester, Manchester University Press, 1986.
• Colchester C. (éd.), Clothing the Pacific, Oxford, Berg, 2003.
• Phillips R. B., Trading Identities: The Souvenir in Native North American Art from the Northeast, 1700-1900, Hong Kong, University of Washington Press, 1998.
• Steele V., Major J. (éd.), China Chic: East Meets West. New Haven, Yale University Press, 1999.
• Tarlo E., Clothing Matters: Dress and Identity in India, London, Hurst and Company, 1996.

Séance 5. Uniformes et écoles

13 février 2019

• Cunnington P., Buck A., Children’s Costume in England, London, Adam and Charles Black, 1965.
• DeMitchell T. A., Fossey R., Cobb C., “Dress Codes in the Public Schools: Principals, Policies, and Precepts”, Journal of Law and Education, 2000, vol. 29, p. 31-50.
• McVeigh B. J, Wearing Ideology: State, Schooling, and Self-Presentation in Japan, Oxford, Berg, 2000.
• Starr J., “School Violence and Its Effect on the Constitutionality of Public School Uniform Policies”, Journal of Law & Education, 2000, vol.29, n°1, p. 113-118.
• Ichiro T., Glaser D., “School Uniforms, Routine Activities, and the Social Control of Delinquency in Japan”, Youth and Society,1991, vol. 23, n°1, p. 50-75.
• Kiley K., Stafford Mary E., “Public School Uniforms: Effect on Perceptions of Gang Presence, School Climate, and Student Self-Perceptions”, Education and Urban Sociology, 2000, vol. 35, n°4, p. 399-420.

Séance 6. Corps habillé et classes sociales

20 février 2019

• Bourdieu P., La distinction, Paris, Les Editions de Minuit, 1979.
• Carter M., Fashion Classics from Carlyle to Barthes, New York, Berg, 2003.
• Crane D., Fashion and Its Social Agendas, Chicago, University of Chicago Press, 2000.
• Davis F., Fashion, Culture, and Identity, Chicago, University of Chicago Press, 1992.
• Kaiser S., The Social Psychology of Clothing, New York, Macmillan Publishing Company, 1990.

Séance 7. Questions de genre

6 mars 2019

• Arthur L. B., “Clothing, Control, and Women’s Agency: The Mitigation of Patriarchal Power”, in Fisher S., Davis K., Negotiating at the Margins, New Brunswick, Rutgers University Press, 1993, p. 66-84.
• Daly M. C., “‘Ah, a Real Kalabari Woman!’: Reflexivity and the Conceptualization of Appearance”, Fashion Theory, 1999, vol. 2, p. 343-361.
• Davis F., Fashion, Culture, and Identity, Chicago, University of Chicago Press, 1992.
• McNeil P., ‘Pretty Gentlemen’: Macaroni Men and the Eighteenth-Century Fashion World, 1, Yale University Press, London and New Haven, 2008..
• Michelman S., Kaiser S. B., “Feminist Issues in Textiles and Clothing Research: Working through/with the Contradictions”, Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 2000, 18, p. 121-127.
• Miller K. A., “Dress: Private and Secret Self-Expression”, Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 1997, 15, p. 223-234.
• Ramazanoglu C., Feminism and the Contradictions of Oppression, New York, Routledge, 1989.
• Steele V., “The Corset: Fashion and Eroticism”, Fashion Theory, 1999, 4, p. 449-474

Séance 8. Chirurgie plastique et esthétique

13 mars 2019

• Haiken, B., “Plastic Surgery and American Beauty at 1921”, Bulletin of the History of Medicine, 1994, 68, p. 429-453.
• Haiken E., Venus Envy: A History of Cosmetic Surgery, Baltimore, Johns Hopkins University Press, 1997.
• Miller C. C., Cosmetic Surgery: The Correction of Featural Imperfections, Chicago, Oak Printing Company, 1907.
• Yalom M., A History of the Breast, New York, Alfred A. Knopf, 1998.

Séance 9. Modes extrêmes

20 mars 2019

• Feng J., Three-Inch Golden Lotus, Honolulu, University of Hawaii Press, 1994.
• Johnson R., “The Anthropological Study of Body Decoration as Art: Collective Representations and the Somatization of Affect”, Fashion Theory, 2001, n°4, p. 417-434.
• Ko D., Every Step a Lotus: Shoes for Bound Feet, Los Angeles, University of California Press, 2001.
• Koda H., Extreme Beauty: The Body Transformed, New York, Metropolitan Museum of New York, 2001.
• Rudofsky B., The Unfashionable Human Body, New York, Doubleday and Company, 1971.
• Steele V., Fetish: Fashion, Sex and Power, Oxford, Oxford University Press, 1996.
• Wilcox C., Radical Fashion, London, Harry N. Abrams, 2001.

Séance 10. Santé et maladie

27 mars 2019

• Braddock S. E., O’Mahoney M., TechnoTextiles: Revolutionary Fabrics for Fashion and Design, New York, Thames and Hudson, 1998.
• Hatch K. L. Textile Science, Minneapolis, West Publishing Company, 1993.
• Renbourn E.T., Rees W. H., Materials and Clothing in Health and Disease, London, H.K. Lewis and Company, 1972.
• Watkins S. M., Clothing: The Portable Environment, Ames, The Iowa State University Press, 1995.

Séance 11. Seconde main et recyclage

3 avril 2019

• Hansen K. T., Salaula: The World of Secondhand Clothing and Zambia, Chicago, University of Chicago Press, 2000.
• Jenss H., “Sixties Dress Only! The Consumption of the Past in a Youth-cultural Retro-Scene”, in Palmer A., Hazel C., Old Clothes, New Looks: Second-Hand Fashion, Oxford, Berg, 2004.
• Milgram L. B., “‘Ukay-Ykay’ Chic: Tales of Fashion and Trade in Secondhand Clothing in the Philippine Cordillera”, in Palmer A., Hazel C., Old Clothes, New Looks: Second-Hand Fashion, Oxford, Berg, 2004.
• Norris L., “The Life Cycle of Clothing in Contemporary Urban India (Delhi)”, in Palmer A., Hazel C., Old Clothes, New Looks: Second-Hand Fashion, Oxford, Berg, 2004.
• Goodard R., Herman D., “Environmental Sustainability: Universal and Non-Negotiable”, Ecological Applications, 1996, n°4, p. 1002-1117.
• Hawley J. M., “Textile Recycling as a System: The Micro-Macro Analysis”, Journal of Family and Consumer Sciences, 2001, n°4, p. 40-46.
• Meis M., “Consumption Patterns of the North: The Cause of Environmental Destruction and Poverty in the South: Women and Children First”, Geneva, United Nations Commission on Environment and Development, 1991.
• Watson J., Textiles and the Environment, New York, The Economist Intelligence Unit, 1991.

Séance 12. Globalisation

10 avril 2019

• Anderson S., Cavanagh J., Lee T., Field Guide to the Global Economy, New York, New Press and the Institute for Policy Studies, 2000.
• Bonacich E., A,pelbaum R.. Behind the Label: Inequality in the Los Angeles Apparel Industry, Berkeley, University of California Press, 2000.
• Hansen, Karen Tranberg. Salaula: The World of Secondhand Clothing and Zambia, Chicago, University of Chicago Press, 2000.
• Kaiser S., “Identity, Postmodernity, and the Global Apparel Marketplace”, in Damhorst M. L., Miller K., Michelman S., Meanings of Dress, New York, Fairchild, 1999.
• Rabine L. W., The Global Circulation of African Fashion, Oxford, Berg, 2002.
• Riello G., Cotton: The Fabric that made the Modern World, Cambridge, Cambridge University Press, 2013,
• Ross A. (éd.), No Sweat: Fashion, Free Trade, and the Rights of Garment Workers, New York, Verso, 1997.
• Stiglitz J. E., Globalization and Its Discontents, New York, Norton and Company, 2002.